This is going to be a little longer than normal…because there was no internet yesterday and also because a lot has happened in the past two days and also because you know how long winded I can be in my writing!! Don’t say I didn’t warn you:)
It is truly a different world up here…and even though they have been touched by modernization/globalization you still feel the core belief system of this community. Just today I learnt of the “butter system.” This is when one family has a surplus of any one item, may it be butter, vegetables, ect. they share it with their neighbours. This generosity and wealth is returned when another person gives out their item of surplus to the neighbours and so on. I also asked today if there was a hunger/poverty issue here in Ladakh area and the answer was no, due to the fact that the community takes care of it members. There is still of course different classes in the society due primarily to the economic growth here is the past years.
One of the reasons that I came up to Leh is because I wrote a small paper on the community and the negative effects globalization has had on it. There is a lady by the name of Helena who produced a documentary called Ancient Features. I was shocked to learn yesterday that this woman is not completely favoured by the Ladakhi people. She is actually the opposite. I was talking with a community member and she had a very negative view of this ‘westerner’. Some people in the community believe that because Helena is a western that she should be respected. But to my understanding she is trying to capsulate the heritage here (noting that it is not ever hers) that she would like the community to not progress with the developing world! Apparently she is not accountable to an uncounted amount of donation money and is the ‘controlling western force’ that is damaging to other NGO’s and western support systems.
Leh is a true definition of a community that lives from the wealth of the land. They live within their means be it that they have restrictions on the hours a day electricity is available, the months of the year running water is available ect. It is true that they have developed into a global community through tourism and trade. They have cell phones, tv/dvd, imported items from around the world ect. There are only 2 ATMS in this town…one of which is chronically broken and the other has a line up at any given time of at least 20 people (and could take up to 2-3 hours to get through – standing in -20+ weather). I stood in line twice yesterday for 30-45 minutes each time and didn’t even move! So I woke up bright and early this morning to ‘beat the rush’ and made it into town on foot by 8:00am…only to find out that it will not open until 10am. Nothing in this town opens before 10am! I am getting a little worried…but I am going to try again tonight after 6pm – wish me luck!
With the growing demands of modernization/globalization they recognize the limits the earth has to sustain their community. In 30-50 years the community of Leh and the surrounding areas will be challenged to survive due to the ever rising issue of water supply.
I had the most interesting day yesterday…and today was no less! I am so thankful that I crossed paths with my new friend. It is amazing the opportunities I have had on this trip and I am somewhat thankful that I was on my own (given the other option) as I would not have opened myself to the people I have met along the way…it’s my own little Canterbury Tail. And I have learnt so much from each person.
Over dinner on my first night in Leh, I found out that my friend is meeting with a NGO that was on my “hit list” so I was able to meet the executive director of the Leh Nutrition Project. They work in many social areas such as education, health, child protection, food and water supple.
The project that I am very interested in working with is the development of the artificial glaciers. An engineer by the name of Chhewang Norphel designed an artificial glacier system that is able to provide water to a community from the early months of April/May each year. Without this water communities are not able to harvest their crops in time leading to a food supply issue – leading to poor health – leading to financial instability - leading to lack of education opportunities.
To date they have built 9 glaciers with only 6 working at this time. I am interested in working with this project as it aligns with the core beliefs in LIB’s community development efforts, such as; community ownership of project, development of basic human needs, protection of environment, ‘green’ developments, child protection, health and education. I am super charged by this opportunity as I believe there might be the possibility to being a team of people over here to actually build the project. Apparently a project takes approximately 25 days to complete, most of this is excavation (redirecting the water to the new glacier where it is stored in ice form until the spring.
Two people from the community are elected to manage the glacier each year. Today I went with my friend to see the project. We first stopped at one of the managers home to have the welcoming tea…I am all of a sudden in love with Chi tea! We were also offered biscuits, cookies other deep fried stuff. There is so much food every place that we stop! After tea we started the trek up to the glacier…it sits about 12000 feet above sea level and took about half hour to get to from the base. It was amazing to experience! After we came back down from the glacier we stopped at the other managers home for tea…and deep fried ‘things.” After that stopped again at the first family’s home for lunch, I am so full, as every time I stop somewhere we get tea and some form of food.
I have now consecutively worn the same 13 pieces of clothing for the past 3 days (16 if you want to include the 2 scarves and a hat of some sort!! I washed some basic necessities last night in water that brings a whole new meeting to the cold cycle. I dried the articles by my propane ‘fireplace’! What can I say it worked!
Apparently Brad Pitt has been in my bed…haha! Just joking I am not sure if he was actually in my room…but he stayed in this hotel two years ago while filming!
Tomorrow Losar (Buddhist new year) starts! Looking forward to experiencing the dancing, music, lights and other fun stuff in the city. I then fly out to Dehli for 2 nights and 4 meetings…then I start the trek back home.
Sending warm thoughts and love your way.
Heather
No comments:
Post a Comment